This past weekend I was abruptly woken up by my phone, buzzing and vibrating as my friend Preston called me continuously, forcing me to wake up. It was Sunday morning and I was expecting to sleep in, which is what I usually do after a stressful Friday, and a nonstop Saturday. I had talked about going for an early morning surf session the night before, but I was not ready to wake up when he called me around 7:30 a.m.
Surfing is a great hobby of mine that I love to do at least one to two times a week. It’s a little hard to find time to fit into my busy schedule, with school, homework, and soccer practice, but I make it work. Anyways, Preston told me he and his brother were on their way to my house to pick me up. I was in a hurry, but I have to wake up to go to surf team for the high school at 6:30 a.m. once a week, so I am used to getting up relatively fast. Preston showed up at my house, I grabbed my board and my wetsuit and we were off to find waves.
On our way, we went to the local bagel shop on the Mesa, called the Bagel Market Cafe. I go there all the time and it is a perfect place to grab a quick breakfast before surfing.
The first spot we checked was Hendry’s Beach, also known as “The Pit.” The waves were decent, but not what we were looking for so we decided to drive farther north. We made our way out towards UCSB, eating our bagels on the way.
When we arrived at Sands, the waves were perfect size and glassy, with no wind affecting them. We quickly chose to go out and I changed into my wetsuit.
I was stoked to have such a good swell and waves as I always am, but it was especially sweet because I hadn’t surfed in a good while due to my crazy schedule. I had finally made time to surf and the waves were super fun. At first when I got in the water, it was a little colder than usual but I got used to it after a while.
I caught a good amount of waves but the waves were a little walled at some peaks, which made it more difficult for a longer ride. I managed to snag many good waves and also took some cool photos of the oil rigs and the UCSB pier.
I switched off with Preston taking pictures of each other and we were able to get some really good shots of each other. Overall, we surfed for about 3 and half hours before we had to go watch the Superbowl. It was a fun day and I was glad that I could fit this adventure into my life. If you surf, comment below your favorite surfing spot and let me know if you liked my post!!